The Aero Ektar Project - Workout

"Nothing is worth more than this day. You cannot relive yesterday. Tomorrow is still beyond your reach."
Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe

Condition - Unexposed

Step one - 12 hrs exposure

Step 2 - 36 hrs exposure

Picture 1

Picture 2

Sunning the Aero contributed by Georges Laloire
Like everyone who is interested and intrigued by the Aero-Ektar, I have read that exposing to ultra-violet rays of the sun could reduce or remove the brownish stain of the rear element.
Myth or truth ?, I wanted to find out....
Surfing the Internet, many opinions pop-up some good, some vague, but then I prefer facts. We had nice sunny days last July, so I decided to try and see what would happen when exposing the rear element to the sun. No scientifical research here, I agree, just empirism.
I took a glass jar, folded a foil of cooking aluminium and placed it inside, filled the jar with water, dropped the degreased rear group in it with the browned glass facing up and let the sun do the healing.
Pictures show the setting before and after.
The purpose of the aluminium foil was to avoid contact between the jar and the lens, and water was added to absorb the heat and prevent eventual damage to the cement between both lenses of the element.
Exposing to the Sun lasted from noon to six pm, and was repeated several times giving the element a total of about 36 hours of UV bathing.
Here are the results. One can see there is a difference between the three pictures. I also tried to show the effect of the browned glass on a picture. I simply took two defocused images of the same flat board in my kitchen, with and without the browned lens in front of the lens of the digital camera. Both pictures were taken in succession, so the light can be considered as constant. I repeated this after exposing the element by UV rays.

The difference is less spectacular here but noticeable (on the original digital files).
It can thus be safely stated that exposing the lens to the sun has a positive effect on the brownish stain, but if it is possible at all to remove all stain to get crystal-clear glass is another question !!!
Looking forward to your results or comments eventually. Mail me through the user site...

Aero Sunbed

Final result

Comments JohnD ::
As far I can see, the difference is very clear and the experiment well done!
The glass is certainly looking very good.
The two images made through the digital camera were very subtle and very difficult to show.
To our visitors :: Depending on the brownish stain on your specific Aero Ektar, Georges method is highly recommended.
Thanks Georges.

f2.5 is this still valid??

You have to find out yourself...
Aero Ektars differ not only in model but also in their brownish stain at the rear elements.
Ours was slightly yellowish brown. It can be lessened or better by exposing to UV light for a certain time. I've heard also the Californian Sun did the trick in just a few days!

We did not do either of the two but were curious though how it would effect the speed of F2.5.

Shown left is the Sinarsix II.

Measuring is knowing!
We have used the SinarSix CDS meter and the Minolta IV/Sinar Booster. Starting with the SinarSix and measuring at the film plane we could not find any discrepancies while measuring a Kodak ND card(18%). Just to be sure we used the Sinar Booster also measuring in the film plane. This meter is capable of measuring in 1/10 stops.
Results were compared with a Minolta 1 degree spotmeter and again no extreme differences were noted. Different measurements showed 1/10 to 2/10 stops difference occasionally.

However to keep it simple (Kiss - Keep it simple stupid), from now on we will use f2.8 for future meter read-offs as it is not very convenient to use one of this meters with this heavy combination. I'm thinking of a Sekonic L2 clip on meter together with my favorite Weston Master or Sekonic Studio deluxe, maybe even My Ranger-9 will do. However I feel it is sufficient to carry a Selenium meter in the field with the option to measure reflected or incident light. For more about meters please refer to our links.

Sekonic Clip-on meter
It took some time to acquire a Clip-on meter to mount on my accessory shoe...
However I have found one on Ebay, working and within tolerance. This is not very common as selenium cell's deteriorate over time.
The meter has a little split(shown) for high readings and once you push a little pin the whole cell will gather the light for low readings.
Place the found value in the window on the black markings.(Low) and on the red markings when reading high values.
That is all you have to do, the meter does not influence the weight of the camera very much :-). In short a nice backup meter.

On a regular base we receive inquiries which meter to use...are there meters from that era and still reliable?
Below you will find three recommendations, which we feel are appropriate with the Speed Graphic.(the Sixties and late Fifties)

Sekonic Clip-on II
Image above shows the meter for readings at low light.
Image on the left shows the baffle closed for high readings.
Note also the NR 2 mask needed to get the proper view with the Aero Ektar 7" on the tubular finder.

Weston Master IV
From 1940, ads in the Masterbooks showed the Weston Master Light meter as the best meter.
The last edition 1958 showed the meter on the left...the legendary Master IV.
Actually the last in the Weston Master series with cd/ft² readout.
Example: Memorized Full Moon will measure 200 cd/ft² placed in Zone VII :
This will result in 60 cd/ft² in Zone V (Our pivotal point) Which will give us an exposure of 1/60 f11 with a film of 100 Ansi. (more westonmaster.com)
Primarily meant to measure reflected light, the meter could also be used for incident light metering by means of the Invercone.
Any selenium meter from the IV up to the Euromaster II will prove itself in the field.

Weston Ranger 9
The Weston ranger 9, used frequently by Ansel Adams (Remark: If he did not forget to bring it along - Moon over Hernandez).
Note the Zone system scales on this meter.
And also the candlles per sq foot values assigned to the arbitrary numbers.
This is a CDS meter, though a little difficult to find the proper batteries , it is very precise and can measure reflected light (18 degrees window) and incident light as well. (Note the small dome)

Metrastar by Metrawatt
Not USA made, but a very sophisticated and especially sturdy meter, probably the best meter in that time (1969). Having also a 18 degree selective measurement area (Controled through the mirrored window) and also a sliding diffusor, the meter is thus suitable for both light measuring methods.
Eventually lost the battle, competing with Gossen Germany. Taken over by Gossen and the design went unfortunately in the fridge...!
Using mercury cell Px 13/625 which are no longer produced. Meter can be powered by Wein replacement cells.

NorWood Director
Not to forget the famous USA made Norwood Director. At the time competing heavily with the WestonMaster.
Very well known by cinephotographers and still photographers as well.
Selenium meter for incident light and a reading in foot-candles.
Reflected light metering was also possible by means of the grid.

Brockway
Brockway also USA made, a direct descendant of the Norwood Director. For complete listing and history see: www.johndesq.com/director

Formulae

Test bench

Exposure Metering

Meter Calibration

Asking a Photograph

Misc Polaroid holders

Information/Manual Polaroid 500
Image Tutorial Polaroid
Inside View Polaroid 500

Interested?
Want to join? - Send your commitment and experience..
Use our TalkBack button! Have an Aero yourself, want to mount it?
Need a Lensboard?
Use the TalkBack button!

My Pacemaker SG's